Eritrea Diver’s Escape

By JOSHUA HAMMER – NYTIMES

The coral wall rose from the depths of the Red Sea, a vast and multicolor canvas brimming with sea life. I swam alongside it for 200 feet, past tangled branches, swaying ferns and brain-like spheres, and then dove toward the ocean floor. A school of black-and-yellow-stripe angelfish darted around me, while a grouper the size of a Smart car lumbered past. Rising toward the surface, I spotted a silver barracuda hovering just below the water line. Abruptly the wall ended, and I rounded the corner to confront a netherworld of rusting cables, ropes, labyrinthine corridors and cabins, and a barnacle-covered anchor.

The dive site I had been exploring for an hour was no natural formation, but the side of an Ethiopian battleship. For the past quarter-century, this corroding wreck has lain on the bottom of the harbor of Massawa, Eritrea’s main port city, slowly colonized by marine life. (The barracuda, my boat captain told me, was one of seven that frequent the sunken ship.) Rebels of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front bombarded and sank the vessel in 1990, during the last bloody months of Eritrea’s three-decade-long independence war against Ethiopia. The rusting bow and the remnants of its gunwales protrude above the surface, forming a beacon for divers and snorkelers.

Diving holidays are perhaps not the first thing that comes to mind when the subject of Eritrea arises. This impoverished nation in the Horn of Africa — bordered by Ethiopia, Djibouti, Sudan and the Red Sea — was once considered among the continent’s brightest hopes. But after two decades of repression, international isolation and a forced military conscription program that has driven hundreds of thousands of young people out of the country, it has earned a reputation as the “North Korea of Africa.” In 2016, a United Nations report accused Eritrea of “crimes against humanity,” citing the imprisonment and torture of dissidents. Its leaders have been sanctioned by the United Nations for providing aid to Al Shabaab, the Islamic terrorist group in Somalia. (The United Nations Monitoring Group on Somalia and Eritrea reported in 2012 that the government, under international pressure, had ended its direct support of the group.) Visitors have been few and far between. According to the government guides I spoke to, the country received fewer than 1,000 tourists in 2015.

Yet despite its myriad problems, Eritrea is generally safe, though it’s best to check the State Department’s travel website for updated information on travel and security (see below). Its Red Sea coast offers some of the finest snorkeling and scuba diving in the world. The warm waters of the Dahlak Archipelago — a scattering of more than 120 islands, only four of them inhabited, lying just north of Massawa — abound with jellyfish, barracuda, manta rays, parrotfish, red snappers, coral fish, puffer fish, clown fish and more than 200 types of corals. Moreover, unlike the deeper, cooler waters elsewhere in the Red Sea, Eritrea’s shallow, and therefore hotter, waters have created corals capable of adapting to temperature extremes. This unique environment, marine biologists believe, could provide a living laboratory to help endangered coral reefs around the world survive in the face of global warming.

I first visited Massawa in 1993, just after Eritrea formally declared its independence, as Africa bureau chief for Newsweek, then returned three years later, when the media and Western donors were still touting the country as a success story. I hired a dive boat and a guide and for two days explored the pristine reefs of the Dahlak Archipelago, then just beginning to attract tourists.

Two decades later, on a return visit last July, I again ventured to the coast, curious to see how Massawa had fared under Eritrea’s harsh dictatorship, and what was left of the diving industry that, in the 1990s, had seemed poised to grow.

I started my journey in Asmara, the 7,628-foot-high capital, a charming, faded city filled with crumbling Art Deco movie theaters and cappuccino bars that date to Italy’s 50-year colonization of Eritrea. (The British threw out the Italians in 1941.) A permit is needed to visit Massawa, obtainable at a hole-in-the-wall office on Harnet Avenue, Asmara’s main drag. There, I met a guide named Thomas, who was trying to secure permission for a dozen Chinese road engineers.

As we waited for the office to open, he lamented Eritrea’s ravaged economy and the open-ended conscription program. “The prime years of people’s lives are being lost,” he told me. He had used his connections to secure a dead-end posting in a ministry instead of army service, but still dreamed of fleeing. “I think about escaping, every day, but now I realize I missed my chance,” he said, as an official showed up on his moped two hours late and unlocked the door. “It’s too late. The walls have gone up.”

I hired a taxi at a downtown stand, and at 8:30 the next morning, the driver, Zaki, picked me up at my hotel. It was Eid al-Fitr, marking the end of Ramadan, and the streets of this small city were deserted. We drove past the Ethiopian war cemetery, fields of cactus and a herd of camels, and then the Asmara escarpment came into view: a barrier of acacia-speckled mountains that extends almost to the Red Sea. Cyclists clad in red-and-white Lycra worked their way around the hairpin turns; the pop music of Mahmoud Ahmed, an Amharic singer from Ethiopia, blared from Zaki’s CD player. After two hours — and a drop of nearly 8,000 feet — we reached the sandy coastal plain. A quintet of captured Ethiopian tanks marked the entrance to Massawa.

We crossed a causeway and arrived at the Dahlak Hotel, an Italian-owned colossus that decades ago was considered Massawa’s finest. Now it was deserted. The marble-tile staircases, Ottoman-style doorways and palatial salons hinted at the hotel’s 1970s-era grandeur. But my $88-a-night second-floor room — overlooking the bombed-out seaside palace of the Ethiopian Emperor Haile Selassie — had corroding fixtures, a sagging mattress and a broken toilet seat. Entering the saltwater pool, I slipped on the thick layers of algae that covered the steps and nearly lacerated my feet kicking off the barnacle-encrusted wall. The pool floor was a moonscape of ripped up tiles and exposed mud underneath.

Late that afternoon the hotel clerk put me in touch with Abdullah, a grizzled boat captain who spoke some Italian but no English. A friendly English-speaking Eritrean from Asmara who was sitting at the outdoor cafe offered to help me make the deal. The logistics, I quickly learned, had grown complicated. Dahlak Kebir Island, the archipelago’s main attraction, was now off limits to tourists, Abdullah said. Instead he proposed a daylong scuba-diving trip to Dessie Island, not far from Dahlak, for 16,000 nakfas, or $1,020, about five times what I had paid two decades earlier.

“I have no business,” Abdullah explained, pointing to five scuttled dive boats moored across Massawa harbor that had constituted his fleet during better times. “Everything is gone.” Abdullah was open to negotiation, but instead I opted for a half-day snorkeling and beach trip around Green Island, just beyond the harbor. The cost was a far more reasonable $200.

The next morning, with the temperature pushing 95 degrees, I met Abdullah on the dock. Two Eritreans to whom I had been introduced the day before — Lydia, my taxi driver Zaki’s sister, and her boyfriend, Berhane, a Massawa-born émigré living in Norway who returns home several times a year — joined me for the adventure. They had packed an ice chest with cold Asmara beers, which we loaded onto the skiff.

As we puttered past the loading docks and cranes of the silent port, Berhane added his voice to the many others I had heard lamenting the country’s collapse. “There are no enterprises and no construction. The government makes it impossible for you, so what else can you do but leave?” he told me. Ten of his 12 siblings had fled abroad. “For many, drowning in the sea is a better option them staying here.” Yet Massawa was his home, he said, and Lydia lived here with her two young sons — and so he felt obliged to return.

Ten minutes after leaving the pier, Abdullah cast the anchor overboard. I strapped on my mask, snorkel and fins, and leapt off the boat. Instantly the harsh realities of Eritrea dissolved in a swirl of color and motion. The water was warm and clear, and I hovered above an extensive coral garden — a “Finding Nemo” tableau. Long-beaked parrotfish, big-eyed squirrelfish, translucent blue disc-shaped surgeonfish, and huge angelfish in a dozen patterns nibbled on brightly colored coral and darted through sea anemones. Schools of tetras and black mollies swept past. I chased a blue-spotted stingray, keeping a safe distance, until it darted beneath a rock, only its poisonous spine protruding from its sanctuary. After an hour spent exploring several of these coral gardens, I climbed back aboard the boat, and we headed toward Green Island. The Asmara escarpment — barren and dun colored — rose just beyond the shore. I walked along a beach alive with hermit crabs. The entire beach seemed to be in motion, tiny white conch shells skittering across the sand.

At dusk that evening I walked by myself down a causeway into Massawa’s Old City. I had been here 20 years before, and remembered jostling with crowds in a square filled with fish restaurants and outdoor tables. Now, wandering down deserted alleys, past mosques and crumbling archways, I searched in vain for the square. Two young couples sat on stools in the dirt courtyard of a private home. One of the women, who spoke some English, invited me to join them. I asked where all the people had gone. “They have all left — for Europe,” she replied. “Do you want to go, too?” I asked. “The boys do, because they are both in the army, but I don’t know,” she said.

She directed me to one of a handful of restaurants still open: Salam, on a dirt square opposite a liquor shop that was illuminated by a string of orange lights for Eid al-Fitr. Two Eritrean diaspora families visiting from the United States — 20 in each group — sat at tables in front.

I ordered the sea bass, and it came quickly to my table, butterflied and grilled with paprika, served with flaky and charred flat bread. It was crisp, spicy and utterly delicious. I paid the bill and walked through the now-darkened streets, past splashes of light from a couple of grocery stores. Then I reached the causeway, and followed a set of abandoned railway tracks back to the Dahlak Hotel.

For more information about traveling to Eritrea, go to lonelyplanet.com/eritrea. And consult the State Department page for up-to-date travel information: travel.state.gov/content/passports/en/alertswarnings/eritrea-travel-warning.html

Icy Snorkeling Death In Iceland

  • An unidentified 65-year-old American tourist died of a heart attack on Sunday, after snorkeling in freezing waters at Iceland’s most popular diving spot: Silfra fissure
  • Scot Hacker, an app developer from California, was diving with a different tour company when he saw the man on the ground
  • Hacker posted on Facebook that one person started performing CPR on the man before a helicopter flew him to National University Hospital in Reykjavik
  • Silfra fissure is known for its crystal clear waters – divers can see up to 40ft away from them – but temperatures hover around 30 degrees Fahrenheit year round
  • ‘It was shocking and such a dark thing to happen after such an incredible experience,’ Hacker, who took awe-inspiring photos and video during his dive, told DailyMail.com

Daniel Bates For Dailymail.com

An American tourist died of a heart attack after snorkeling in freezing waters at Iceland’s most popular diving site on Sunday.

The 65-year-old collapsed at the side of the Silfra fissure, where his tour guide performed CPR as other horrified tourists looked on.

The tourist, who has not been named, was flown to the National University Hospital in the nearby capital city of Reykjavik but died soon after.

The death is the eighth serious accident to occur at Silfra since 2010 and the fourth fatal one, according to local reports. The spectacular 90ft deep, 1,500ft long fissure has water so clear that divers can see up to 40ft away from them.

Park officials have raised concerns about the 50,000 people diving there each year as tourists find it hard to adjust to the cold water.

Scroll down for video

An American tourist died of a heart attack after snorkeling in freezing waters at Iceland’s most popular diving site, the Silfra fissure, on Sunday. This photo was taken on the day of the fatal dive by Scot Hacker, who witnessed the scene and spoke with DailyMail.com about what he saw
An American tourist died of a heart attack after snorkeling in freezing waters at Iceland’s most popular diving site, the Silfra fissure, on Sunday. This photo was taken on the day of the fatal dive by Scot Hacker, who witnessed the scene and spoke with DailyMail.com about what he saw

An American tourist died of a heart attack after snorkeling in freezing waters at Iceland’s most popular diving site, the Silfra fissure, on Sunday. This photo was taken on the day of the fatal dive by Scot Hacker, who witnessed the scene and spoke with DailyMail.com about what he saw

The unidentified tourist was part of a tour of eight people who went for a lunchtime snorkel in water that hovers around 30 degrees Fahrenheit all year
The unidentified tourist was part of a tour of eight people who went for a lunchtime snorkel in water that hovers around 30 degrees Fahrenheit all year

The unidentified tourist was part of a tour of eight people who went for a lunchtime snorkel in water that hovers around 30 degrees Fahrenheit all year

Large crowds mean they have to wait for some time for their turn in dry suits, which constrict their blood flow, making an accident more likely.

The tourist was part of a tour of eight people who went for a lunchtime snorkel in water that hovers around 30 degrees Fahrenheit year round.

Scot Hacker, 51, who was diving with a different tour company, wrote on Facebook that he ‘watched a person die today, and am feeling shaken’.

Scot Hacker, 51, who was diving with a different tour company, wrote on Facebook that he ‘watched a person die today, and am feeling shaken’
Scot Hacker, 51, who was diving with a different tour company, wrote on Facebook that he ‘watched a person die today, and am feeling shaken’

Scot Hacker, 51, who was diving with a different tour company, wrote on Facebook that he ‘watched a person die today, and am feeling shaken’

Hacker told DailyMail.com that as he was getting out of the water he looked to his right to see a the man, who had a stocky build, having clear difficulties.

Hacker said: ‘The person was on the ground on their back. There was one person kneeling over them doing CPR and a group of five people standing close by.

‘A helicopter came in and we were asked to move back. Our guide shooed us out of the area. It was shocking and such a dark thing to happen after such an incredible experience.’

Hacker, an app developer from El Cerrito, California, added that there were a lot of tour groups at the fissure that day, meaning each group had to wait on a bench for their go.

The Silfra fissure is considered a bucket list activity by many. Reviews on Tripadvisor say that ‘words cannot begin to describe’ the beauty and say it’s ‘all worth it’.

The site is where the European and American tectonic plates meet, and the water that fills the fissure bubbles up from the center of the Earth.

'Our guide shooed us out of the area. It was shocking and such a dark thing to happen after such an incredible experience,' Hacker, pictured on the left at Silfra, said
'Our guide shooed us out of the area. It was shocking and such a dark thing to happen after such an incredible experience,' Hacker, pictured on the left at Silfra, said

‘Our guide shooed us out of the area. It was shocking and such a dark thing to happen after such an incredible experience,’ Hacker, pictured on the left at Silfra, said

The tourist was flown by helicopter from Thingvellir National Park to the National University Hospital in Reykjavik, 30 miles to the east, but died soon after
The tourist was flown by helicopter from Thingvellir National Park to the National University Hospital in Reykjavik, 30 miles to the east, but died soon after

The tourist was flown by helicopter from Thingvellir National Park to the National University Hospital in Reykjavik, 30 miles to the east, but died soon after

Safety has been a concern for some tourists at the site and one review on Tripadvisor said: ‘The dry suit is kinda scary and when they put the hood over your head you may have a panic attack as you feel tense with sense of suffocation' 
Safety has been a concern for some tourists at the site and one review on Tripadvisor said: ‘The dry suit is kinda scary and when they put the hood over your head you may have a panic attack as you feel tense with sense of suffocation' 

Safety has been a concern for some tourists at the site and one review on Tripadvisor said: ‘The dry suit is kinda scary and when they put the hood over your head you may have a panic attack as you feel tense with sense of suffocation’

Divers at the site, located in Thingvellir National Park, 30 miles east of the Reykjavík, must obtain a permit from park authorities. Most tour groups charge between $250 and $350 for the three hour trip, of which 30 minutes is spent underwater.

Safety has been a concern for some tourists and one review on Tripadvisor said: ‘The dry suit is kinda scary and when they put the hood over your head you may have a panic attack as you feel tense with sense of suffocation.’

An official at the Icelandic Coast Guard, which flew the tourist to the hospital on its helicopter, told DailyMail.com that first responders were nervous about some tour groups being too ‘gung ho’.

The official said: ‘There are so many tourists diving there and there is no infrastructure at Silfra.

‘If you are snorkeling you at least need to be able to swim – they will basically let anybody in.’

Einar Ásgeir Sæmundsson, the spokesman for Thingvellir National Park, said that the tourist became ‘dizzy’ as he was about to come out of the water.

He said: ‘What it seems like is that man suffered from a heart attack in the water.

‘He was snorkeling with his group and he was getting out of the water when he became ill.’

South Iceland police chief superintendent Oddur Árnason said that he was still waiting for the autopsy results to reveal the exact cause of death.

He said: ‘There appear to be indications that the person did not drown but there was an illness, a heart attack or something.

‘Police in Iceland have the duty to investigate accidental deaths whatever the reason. I find it unlikely it will turn into a criminal investigation but we have a duty to investigate.’

A spokesman for the State Department said: ‘We can confirm the death of a US citizen in Iceland on February 12, 2017.

‘We offer our sincerest condolences to their friends and family. We stand ready to provide all appropriate consular services.’

 

Glock Lionfish Fishing – AWESOME!

A monster lionfish measuring nearly 18 inches long set a new single-fish size record for the REEF Lionfish Derby series Saturday in Key Largo.

In the largest Key Largo Winter Lionfish Derby ever, 48 underwater hunters on 14 teams fanned out at dawn to remove 420 lionfish from Florida Keys waters in the one-day contest.

READ MORE: The lionfish: King of the ocean no more?

The winning team from the Islamorada Dive Center returned with 181 lionfish, which topped the previous Key Largo Winter Derby record (161 lionfish).

Also turning in big harvests in the fifth annual contest were runners-up Fancy Feast Killaz squad with 97 lionfish and the Lion Reapers with 97 of the unwanted invasive fish.

 

The team from Ocean Divers bagged the biggest lionfish, recorded at 452 millimeters. That’s “the largest lionfish that has ever been turned in at any official REEF Lionfish Derby,” said Emily Stokes, a lionfish-program staffer with the Reef Environmental Education Foundation, based in Key Largo.

A researcher from the University of Pennsylvania attended the contest to examine and analyze the stomach contents of harvested lionfish, which are considered a major threat to native fish species including snapper and grouper, along with other reef fish.

Lionfish, a Pacific Ocean species, defend themselves with an array of venomous spines and have no significant natural predators in Atlantic waters. A lionfish will eat anything that fits in its mouth and can reproduce throughout the year.

Some reefs in the Bahamas have lost from 65 percent to 95 percent of the native fish to lionfish in a two-year period, Oregon State University biologist Stephanie Green reported.

“Regular removals and removal events such as derbies have been found to significantly reduce lionfish populations” at local reefs, Stokes said.

Samples of lionfish ceviche were given away at the Key Largo contest, hosted by Sharkey’s Pub & Galley, to promote awareness of lionfish as a tasty seafood treat.

Major sponsors for the REEF Winter Lionfish Derby includeed the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, the Florida Park Service, Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, ZooKeeper and Divers Direct.

 

Eagle’s Nest Florida – DEADLY?!

Anne Schindler is on your side. 2/2/2017

Share This Story

“It’s a very primal, primal fear,” Dr. Andrew Pitkin says. “Being in a small space filled with water. It absolutely horrifies people.”

It’s a fear that Pitkin understands, but does not share. He’s grown comfortable in some of earth’s most inhospitable places: Underwater caves that are more than 300 feet deep and several miles from any surface opening.

Pitkin is part of a small fraternity of explorer-level cave divers. He and his colleague Brett Hemphill, with the nonprofit Karst Underwater Research group, have mapped miles of previously unexplored caves, scouting the Swiss-cheese architecture of Florida’s underground springs, all while pushing the boundaries of endurance and human imagination.

“It’s a deep dark place,” Pitkin observes. “The typical reaction is, ‘You would never catch me doing that.’”

FLORIDA’S MOST NOTORIOUS CAVE

On a warm winter morning, Pitkin and Hemphill sit on a wooden platform near the entrance to one of Florida’s most notorious and lethal caves: Eagle’s Nest. Its entrance – a placid pond – looks as benign as a Florida swimming hole.

Located deep in the woods of Hernando County, Eagle’s Nest claimed the lives of two experienced divers last October. Last month – just days after the men spoke to First Coast News – another diver was killed, marking the 11th known death at Eagle’s Nest.

“Whenever there’s a cave diving fatality, the general public will go, ‘Oooh, I would never do that! So close it,’” Hemphill notes.

The state did close the site between 1999 to 2003. It was reopened at the urging of divers. However, calls to close it again surfaced after the Christmas 2013 deaths of Darrin Spivey, 35, and his 15-year-old son. The October 2016 deaths of Patrick Peacock and Chris Rittenmeyer, both experienced divers, prompted an online petition urging Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission to close or regulate it. And on Jan. 8, Charles Odom died while surfacing from a dive.

“How many more lives need to be lost for this place to be closed?” asks the Change.org petition.

“It’s natural to want to blame something – ‘the evil cave’ – for what happened,” Pitkin says. “But it’s not appropriate, any more than it’s appropriate to blame a mountain someone falls off.”

Pitkin notes that nearly 300 people have died trying to summit Mount Everest, but nobody is pushing to close that natural wonder.

“They say ‘It’s a mountain, what do you expect?” Pitkin says.

EXPERIENCED DIVERS: THE CAVE IS SAFE  WITH PROPER TRAINING

Deadly to some, Eagle’s Nest isn’t even all that challenging to the most experienced divers like Pitkin and Hemphill.

“It’s like a stroll in the park for us, really,” Pitkin says. “If you know what you’re doing, it’s as safe as any other cave.”

The problem, they say, is few divers really do know what they’re doing. Caves are not simply “next level” dives for the scuba-certified. The overhead environment of a cave like Eagle’s Nest means there is only one way out. That exit can be hard to find, even with a guide wire.

The caves are pitch black. And while some portions are so narrow divers must squeeze through, other sections are large enough to drive a tractor-trailer through. They are also full of rushing water, with currents strong enough that that divers use underwater scooters to pull them along. Every finstroke can kick up silt, turning the crystal-clear caves into blind alleys.

Take a timelapse tour through a portion of Eagle’s Nest, described as “the Mount Everest” of underwater caves. Video: Andrew Pitkin

HOURS OF DECOMPRESSION

Divers can also get out of their depth easily, and those using ordinary dive gear (open-circuit scuba) are at risk of nitrogen narcosis, which causes severe mental impairment. Even rising to the surface can be dangerous, so divers must decompress. If not, a quick ascent can cause air bubbles to bloom in the bloodstream, leading to paralysis or even death.

“The best way to explain it is if you have a two-liter bottle of pop,” Hemphill explains. “You shake it up, you never see the bubbles because it’s under pressure. But the moment you open the top, you see those bubbles form. We become those vessels underwater.”

To help with decompression, Pitkin and Hemphill use rebreathers, which recycle unused oxygen and add in helium. The so-called closed circuit scuba allows them to stay under for as long as 20 hours. Long dives come with their own hazards – particularly fatigue – and require extended decompression times. Every 15 minutes the divers spend underwater can require a full hour of decompression.

“A dive may only be two to three hours, but because it was two to three hours at 300 feet, we have to do another 10 to 12 hours or so of decompression,” Pitkin explains. “That’s a lot of sitting around not doing much, but it’s simple physics. We can’t change that.”

None of these tangible hazards even factor in panic, which some people begin to experience just hearing about these dives. Pitkin says a gradual and reasoned approach to diving helps them prepare for the unexpected.

“We have a healthy fear of the environment,” he says. “Fear may be a strong word, but profound respect.”

Experienced divers, Brett Hemphill and Andrew Pitkin explain why divers need to decompress

RECOVERING BODIES

Do they have cave diving nightmares? Both men insist they do not, but some real life moments are close enough.

Because cave diving is so specialized and potentially hazardous, it’s beyond the skill-set of ordinary law enforcement dive teams. Both Pitkin and Hemphill are trained recovery divers. They are able to document a scene and bring bodies to the surface, according to law enforcement guidelines.

Hemphill has had to use that grim skill set several times, including at Eagle’s Nest.

“It doesn’t really affect you until you get home, and you go to bed and wake up and see your kids the next day,” Hemphill says. “For me, it’s helped me. I don’t want to be that person.”

The divers recover bodies at their own expense, which can cost thousands of dollars, depending on the length and intensity of the dive. Given the difficulty of navigating some cave passages, the work of bringing up a body can be both physically and emotionally taxing.

“You’ve also got to be a very competent diver to get to the place where those people are and sometimes that’s not a very straightforward place,” Pitkin says. “It may be very deep. It may be very far back. It may be in a very difficult part of the cave.”

Such was the case with the October deaths of Patrick Peacock and Chris Rittenmeyer, who explored a section of cave first discovered by Pitkin. According to the Hernando County Sheriff’s Office, the divers made it 1,300 feet into the cave before running into trouble. They say Peacock shed his tanks – presumably because he got stuck – and the two men attempted to exit while ‘buddy breathing.”

“He had left his rebreather, his open-circuit scuba, and his buoyancy compensation, literally left it laying in the dirt completely intact, completely functioning,” Hemphill says. “At that point, they made an attempt to exit, with one diver 100 percent impaired.”

Their bodies were found 550 feet from the entrance, just shy of where they’d staged a spare tank of oxygen.

“They very nearly made it, which was one of the saddest things about the whole episode,” Pitkin says. “His buddy stayed with him, and tried to help him the whole way. And finally, they both ran out [of air].”

“IT WOULD BE TRAGIC IF IT WAS CLOSED”

The reputation of Eagle’s Nest can make it a target for those who would like to close it. Hernando County Sheriff Al Nienhuis says he’s familiar with the Change.org petition, but doesn’t favor it.

“I think it would be tragic if it was closed,” he says. “It’s alluring, much like mountain climbing, to be one of very few people who’ve ever seen that.”

For Hemphill and Pitkin, the beauty of the caves is certainly a draw, as is the thrill of exploration. But they are also at work. Karst Underwater Research maps caves and measures water flow, data they then provide to the state’s Water Management Districts. It’s information they hope helps protect the state’s fragile underwater caves, which are home to the state’s primary drinking water supply, the Floridan Aquifer.

“Everything we do – exploration, survey, documentation, photography, whatever it happens to be – that’s important information,” Hemphill says. “In the world we live in, truly the best way to protect something is to document it.”

 

Oldest Tropical DNA Found Tortoise

An extinct tortoise species that accidentally tumbled into a water-filled limestone sinkhole in the Bahamas about 1,000 years ago has finally made its way out, with much of its DNA intact.

As the first sample of ancient DNA retrieved from an extinct tropical species, this genetic material could help provide insights into the history of the Caribbean tropics and the reptiles that dominated them, said University of Florida ornithologist David Steadman. It could also offer clues to the region’s future, as the tropics undergo significant transformation due to climate change.

“This is the first time anyone has been able to put a tropical species into an evolutionary context with molecular data,” said Steadman, an ornithology curator at the Florida Museum of Natural History on the UF campus and co-author of the study discussing the finding.

“And being able to fit together the tortoise’s evolutionary history together will help us better understand today’s tropical species, many of which are endangered.”

skull photo

The fossil skull of the Bahamian tortoise, which yielded the first ancient tropical DNA. Photo courtesy of Nancy Albury.

He called the finding “boundary-pushing” and said that even after DNA was extracted from the tortoise bones, the researchers were not optimistic that much information could be gleamed from it.

“Not only did we have DNA, we were surprised to find we could amplify it and sequence DNA beyond what we had available,” Steadman said.

Most ancient DNA has come from mammals that lived in temperate regions, he said.

“The two things that are really good for the long-term preservation of DNA are coldness and dryness,” Steadman said. “And the tropics typically provide neither one.”

A plastic 3-D model created from the ancient tortoise’s shell rests easily in two hands, about the size of a football. Bite marks from crocodiles and other predators are visible on the surface.

“The tortoise went through a pretty ugly existence,” he said.

After retrieving the tortoise from Sawmill Sink, a deep blue hole in the Bahamas with steep vertical walls, scuba divers found not only the shell intact, but the entire skeleton.

“That’s really unheard of in the fossil record, especially in the West Indies,” Steadman said.

cascade photo

Two divers explore deep inside a blue hole in the Bahamas. Photo by Brian Kakuk

Access to the tortoise’s skeleton and DNA enabled Florida Museum herpetologist emeritus and study co-author Richard Franz to describe its anatomy and structure in as much detail as modern species. Divers found other giant tortoises preserved in the water, but performed DNA analysis on only one for the published study.

“In the fossil record, so many species are described just from a few fragments that exist, and while it’s a lot better than nothing, you don’t get to characterize the entire critter,” Steadman said. “Whereas, with this tortoise, well, here it is.”

The tortoise skeleton contained bone collagen, a protein, which allowed scientists to radiocarbon date the animal and find out when it died. Several other tortoises that were also found in the Bahamas—though not as well preserved—helped researchers determine the species went extinct about 780 years ago, soon after the arrival of human settlers in the area.

“There’s a correlation that the arrival of humans spelled the demise of the tortoises,” Steadman said. “It’s probably a blend of direct hunting and habitat loss as the humans started burning the forests in the dry season.”

The chemical composition of the water in Sawmill Sink prevented the decay of animals that fell into the water, died about fell to the bottom 80 feet down. The secret: water with no oxygen. The water in Sawmill Sink is stratified, or has several layers. The decay of plants and animals removes the oxygen from the water deeper than 70 feet, helping to preserve the fossils.

tourtoise photo

Photo courtesy of Nancy Albury.

Although the conditions in Sawmill Sink are an exception rather than a rule, the findings give scientists more hope of finding material from other extinct tropical species.

“We now know so much about the tortoise’s anatomy, how it lived and its evolutionary context,” he said. “To be able to do that with other species is a goal.”

 

 

 

https://youtu.be/mUPydgBkAYQ

 

Blue Star program helps guard our seas

One of my favorite dive spots in the upper Keys is Davis Reef, which is about a 25-minute boat ride from Tavernier. It has all manner of marine life, soft and hard coral and a nice, shallow ledge that is easy to navigate.

The abundance of life on Davis Reef is no accident.

The Florida Keys was an early leader in working to ensure the health of the ocean. In 1960, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park was established off Key Largo as the world’s first underwater park. Continued environmental degradation prompted the eventual designation of Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary in 1975.

On November 16, 1990, President George H. Bush signed into law the bill establishing the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

Davis Reef is located in a Sanctuary Preservation Area, one of 18 Sanctuary Preservation Areas in the sanctuary. The SPAs, marked by large yellow buoys, restrict fishing and harvesting of marine life, prohibit anchoring on living or dead coral and anchoring when a mooring buoy is available. (See http://floridakeys.noaa.gov/zones/spas/welcome.html)

The warm, clear water and the close proximity to shore of the many shallow reefs, including Davis, attract thousands of divers and snorkelers to the Keys each year.

According to NOAA, during 2007 and 2008 divers participated in 2.8 million days of diving in the Keys.

The continued high number of scuba divers visiting the Keys is good news for dive operators and related businesses, but bad news for the reef and ocean critters if the divers and snorkelers don’t take precautions to protect the health of the reefs.

Understanding this, the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary established the Blue Star program, funded in part by a grant awarded from Mote Marine Laboratory’s Protect Our Reef Grants Program. The money for the grant are derived from the sale of the Protect Our Reefs Specialty License Plate.

Under the Blue Star program, participating commercial dive operators, who are committed to promoting responsible and sustainable diving and snorkeling practices, agree to educate their customers about proper snorkeling and diving etiquette to help protect the ecosystem of the sanctuary.

The program, which is completely voluntary, is similar to the “Clean Marina” program administered by the United States Environmental Protection Agency. (http://www.dep.state.fl.us/cleanmarina/)

Blue Star was developed with advice from dive operators and the REEF Environmental Education Foundation. (REEF’s mission is to preserve marine ecosystems through educating, enlisting and enabling divers and other marine enthusiasts to become active stewards and citizen scientists.)

Becoming a Blue Star dive shop requires initial and on-going education, standards of conduct and periodic evaluations.

There is even a complaint process if a diver believes a Blue Star dive shop is not following the rules.

All Blue Star dive shop employees must be trained on program standards by either attending the initial training workshop or through training in-house with materials provided by Blue Star.

They are also required to be knowledgeable about the coral reef ecosystem, proper diving and snorkeling reef etiquette, and the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

After being successfully evaluated by a Blue Star representative a dive shop can become an official Blue Star participant by signing an agreement to voluntarily follow Blue Star program criteria. The shop receives recognition materials including a plaque for the shop showing that the it is a member of Blue Star.

Dive shops that are members of the program are required to offer at least one conservation-related activity such as an “Adopt A Reef” clean-up dive. They must also offer at least one conservation-related specialty course such as buoyancy control, REEF fish identification or underwater naturalist.

Blue Star boat crews are trained to demonstrate proper examples by using mooring buoys when available and anchoring in accordance with Sanctuary regulations. They must comply with all marine conservation laws and regulations and recycle engine oil. They are encouraged to recycle glass, plastic, cans and paper.

When you dive with a Blue Star operator, you will notice that the captain, mate or divemaster, in addition to reviewing safe diving practices briefs divers about: how to protect the reef by proper weighting and buoyancy control; precautions for hand placement and fin use; special rules when diving in SPAs, and interaction with marine life.

Dive shops are required to inform divers who are diving on shipwrecks or submerged artifacts that wrecks and artifacts should be left intact because they are part of our shared cultural heritage and protected by the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary.

“Our Blue Star operators are well regarded for providing engaging experiences,” said Eric Raslich, Blue Star program coordinator. “Blue Star operators educate and support best practices in the sanctuary, providing a customer experience that is committed to diving in environmentally conscious and sustainable ways that ensure the resources will remain for divers in the future as well.”

Protecting the oceans is a job for all of us –not just divers, scientists, not-for-profit organizations and government agencies.

We must all work together to be good stewards for the oceans upon which we all depend for food, oxygen, climate control, transportation, medicine, the economy recreation and more.

By participating in the Blue Star program dedicated dive shops are helping to protect the marine ecosystem.

When visiting the Keys please practice responsible diving and snorkeling. If your skills are rusty, take a refresher course or maybe a new dive course that will help you to master your buoyancy control or help you identify the tropical fish that inhabit the reef.

When you are ready to dive, book with a Blue Star shop to help you responsibly enjoy the wonders in the Florida Keys. If you get an opportunity, visit beautiful Davis Reef. Besides an abundance of sea fans you might just see the statue of Buddha

For more on Blue Star, including a list of Blue Star operators see: http://floridakeys.noaa.gov/onthewater/bluestar.html

The details on Blue Star membership are available at: http://floridakeys.noaa.gov/onthewater/framework.pdf

Don Rhodes, in addition to a career in government affairs, has taught scuba for 30 years. He and his wife retired to Tavernier five years ago, where he works as an instructor for Conch Republic Divers. He can be reached at [email protected].

 

 

He vanished from his ship – SaltyDogs.com

Day after day, Keith Davis stood at the rail of the cargo ship, watching a fleet of rusty long-liners off-load tuna, marlin and other fish.

His work as an observer for the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission was critical. On that ship off the west coast of South America, he was a vital watchman in the struggle to protect the world’s oceans from overfishing.

A 41-year-old musician and nature lover from Arizona, Davis was a veteran of many such voyages. He loved the Jacques Cousteau-like majesty of the high seas, the tinseled splash of dolphins and glassy-blue waves that rolled on restlessly from horizon to horizon.

This trip in 2015 was vexing. The fish being loaded onto the cargo ship were so heavily carved up that he struggled to identify them. He wondered whether fishermen on the long-liners might be trying to trick him, to disguise one kind of fish as another. Frustrated, he took pictures, asked questions and fired off emails to a federal fisheries biologist in Hawaii.

Keith Davis plays his mandolin on the bridge of the Victoria No. 168. Davis had once written a song about observers who died at sea: “Some say he’s lost. Maybe he’s been found.”

Keith Davis plays his mandolin on the bridge of the Victoria No. 168. Davis had once written a song about observers who died at sea: “Some say he’s lost. Maybe he’s been found.” Credit: Victoria No. 168

He also wondered about the crew on the cargo ship. Five hundred miles west of Lima, Peru, he was the odd man out, a scientific monitor and conspicuous informant in the company of mariners he did not know. Yet he carried no badge, no weapon. He had no way of signaling for help without going through a computer in the captain’s quarters.

On Sept. 10, the sky was the color of an old dishrag. The winds were light. A long-liner had just unloaded the last catch of the trip. Davis reported nothing out of the ordinary. But just after 4 p.m., the chief officer discovered something startling: Davis was not on board.

Alarmed, the captain ordered the crew to search the ship. They found nothing. Not satisfied, the captain ordered a second search and a third – to no avail. That left just one possibility: Davis was in a world of danger. Somehow, he had fallen into the 15,000-foot-deep ocean. The captain contacted several nearby fishing boats, which helped search the surrounding waters. Still nothing. At 10:30 p.m., the captain reached for his marine radio and called authorities at the closest port in Peru.

No one answered. A chain of communications went out from the Victoria No. 168 to the ship’s manager in Panama, then to Davis’ boss in Alaska.

But it wasn’t until more than 24 hours later that the phone rang at the U.S. Coast Guard base in Alameda, California, to report the American missing. Every minute mattered. The water temperature where he vanished was 66 degrees, cold enough to be dangerous. A computer model estimated he could survive only a few hours longer.

With no vessels in the area, the Coast Guard contacted authorities in Peru. They couldn’t help. The ship was too far out to sea.

But on the tarmac in El Salvador, there was hope: a Coast Guard C-130 Hercules search-and-rescue plane. There was also a problem. The crew already had flown 45 hours that week, close to the 50-hour maximum. Reaching the ship, searching the area and returning to land would require at least 10 more hours of flying.

From the ship came more troubling news: Davis’ life jacket had been found in his cabin. The odds of finding him were slim, if he was still alive. The plane stayed on the ground.

By late Friday, Sept. 11, time was running out. Davis had been missing for more than 30 hours. The Coast Guard tried a Hail Mary. It forwarded navigational coordinates to Davis’ cargo ship, directing it to the most promising areas to search.

By Sunday, ships had scoured more than 50,000 football fields of open ocean with no sign of Davis. But as the search ended, other activities were beginning. No longer was the Victoria No. 168, sailing under Panamanian authority, just another cargo ship. To U.S. authorities, it was a potential crime scene.

And that evening, they received a tip. “I have additional details that suggest his disappearance may be suspicious.”

***

In September 2015, fisheries observer Keith Davis vanished from the Victoria No. 168, a Panamanian-flagged cargo ship. His disappearance remains a mystery.

In September 2015, fisheries observer Keith Davis vanished from the Victoria No. 168, a Panamanian-flagged cargo ship. His disappearance remains a mystery. Credit: MRAG Americas

Observers do the conservation dirty work along the supply chain that brings seafood to consumers around the world.

The data they gather, alone and far from shore, is the only independent information authorities have about how much and what kinds of fish are harvested from the world’s oceans and the collateral damage to marine mammals, seabirds and other species.

This helps authorities set the rules for how much tuna and other fish can be taken out of the ocean each year. But observers do more than help take the guesswork out of fisheries management. They also scan the seas for illegal fishing, which is estimated to account for as much as 26 million tons a year, more than 15 percent of the global catch. Although observers are not authorized to stop illegal activity, their data is relayed to officials who can and sometimes do take action.

Many observers are young, often just out of college. They go to sea because they love the ocean and want to protect it. What they discover on vessels around the world is an environment not covered in marine science textbooks. There are hard drugs, loaded guns, knife fights and ex-cons – a minefield of mayhem from which observers are not immune.

Some observers return from trips shaken and embittered, like veterans coming home from a war. Some never return at all. Since 2007, Reveal from The Center for Investigative Reporting found that at least nine observers have died on the job – four of them Americans. Foul play is suspected, but not proven, in at least two of the deaths.

Physical intimidation is only part of the problem. Some observers are offered bribes and fear reprisal if they don’t take them. If they are women, they may be targeted for sexual harassment or belittled as bad luck.

“It absolutely made me feel like a prisoner,” said Ellen Reynolds, an observer who spent two nightmarish months on a trawler in Alaska in 2008. The captain told her she was stupid, she said, read her emails and ordered the crew not to speak to her. Someone stole her undergarments. She wanted out: “I couldn’t escape this boat. I couldn’t escape this person.”

On a different vessel in Alaska in 2011, observer Matthew Srsich noticed something odd: a half-gallon milk carton dangling on a line in front of him at eye level. Taped to one side was a powerful firecracker called a seal bomb. Boom! The blast knocked Srsich to his hands and knees. The ringing in his ears was nonstop. Unable to work, he battled headaches, earaches and dizziness for the remaining two and a half weeks of the trip. Afterward, a doctor found he’d suffered significant hearing loss.

At the end of one workday somewhere off the Atlantic coast, Joe Flynn set his boots in the engine room to keep them dry. When he put them on the next morning, his foot got soaked. And his sock was yellow.

“The captain had pissed in my boot,” Flynn said.

Worldwide, there are an estimated 2,500 observers, about 900 of them American. Scores of companies compete for contracts to provide observers to government agencies and regional fisheries management organizations.

In the U.S., reports of observer abuse climbed from 28 in 2009 to 79 in 2015, according to National Marine Fisheries Service data. But many cases also remain in the shadows because observers fear they’ll lose their jobs if they speak out. Others don’t speak up because they believe nothing will be done.

Their plight is playing out as concern grows about the future of wild seafood and marine ecosystems. In many parts of the world, fishermen have caught too much, too fast, driving populations of bluefin tuna, Atlantic cod and other species to alarmingly low levels. In the process, they’ve also netted, hooked and killed vast numbers of sharks, seabirds and marine mammals.

Never before have consumers demanded more accountability from the seafood industry. They want dolphin-safe tuna, turtle-safe shrimp, slavery-free prawns.

Yet the well-being of observers goes almost unnoticed.

“It’s as if they don’t exist,” said Elizabeth Mitchell, president of the Association of Professional Observers. “If people knew what observers have to go through to bring fish to their plate, they might feel differently about buying fish.”

Few observers spoke out more strongly for reform than Keith Davis. He was one of their leaders, a seagoing Cesar Chavez who fought for safer working conditions. He helped write an observer bill of rights calling for a workplace “free from assault, harassment, interference or bribery.”

At 41, Davis was old for an observer. But with a boyish smile, chestnut-brown hair and a seemingly inexhaustible reservoir of energy, he looked and acted years younger. Davis loved the wayfaring nature of the job, the long journeys at sea followed by downtime in exotic ports and at home in Arizona.

But observing had its downsides, too, as he pointed out in “Eyes on the Seas,” a collection of stories by observers that was published last year:

It can be tough simply being the odd-one-out on board. Scenarios of confrontation and harassment are bound to arise. … Though rare, I have even found myself in a few situations with no line of defense besides trying to remain calm, quietly documenting everything and riding out a bad trip.” 

It had all started when he was a young boy, fishing for flounder in Boston Harbor with his father and later, after the two moved to Arizona, snorkeling in Mexico’s Sea of Cortez. The ocean cast a spell. When Davis graduated from the University of Arizona in 1998 with a bachelor’s degree in ecology and evolutionary biology, he chose an emphasis in marine biology. The next year, he landed a job as an observer.

He worked on trawlers and crabbers in Alaska, scallop dredgers in New England and long-liners in Hawaii. But in 2009, a new gig arose. In the high seas of the Pacific, pirate boats were off-loading illegal catches onto massive refrigerated cargo ships, laundering them as legal.

Davis, an experienced hand, was tapped to be one of the first observers on those cargo ships.

Out there, beyond the reach of authorities, was a Wild West-like frontier where boats chased glittering schools of tuna worth millions of dollars. Crewmembers were often as disposable as the bycatch.

While their bosses hungered for fortune, they were just plain hungry. Desperate for opportunity, they mostly came from poor towns and villages across Southeast Asia, sometimes tricked by unscrupulous recruiters. The captains push them hard. On some boats, they were beaten, denied medical care and forced to work when they were sick. Some died. Others jumped overboard.

“Life is respected differently out there,” said Cheree Smith, a former observer in Oregon who knew Davis in Hawaii. “It’s open water and it’s a war, for money, for tuna.”

***

Keith Davis had logs from other observers detailing terrible working conditions aboard long-liners, including physical abuse.

Keith Davis had logs from other observers detailing terrible working conditions aboard long-liners, including physical abuse. Credit: Keith Davis

Bubba Cook knew this insular world of observers well. A marine conservationist for the World Wildlife Fund, he was part of their tribe. He huddled with them at conferences, called them heroes of the sea.

As word of Davis’ disappearance spread, Cook sat in his office in coastal Wellington, New Zealand, distraught. Davis was one of his friends.

He looked down at his laptop and tapped at the keyboard, composing a message to the International Labor Organization, which oversees working conditions for mariners. Outside, it was dark and wet. Most people had gone home for the evening. Gradually, the tapping intensified and a drumbeat of words spilled across the screen.

Keith was a positive, upbeat guy. He was not depressed. He was far from suicidal. He was also an experienced and able-bodied seaman. He would not just “slip over the side” or otherwise put himself in any situation that might compromise his safety or welfare.

I can’t state this publicly because his family is still understandably coming to grips with the possibility that he will not be found. But myself and other fisheries observers know in our guts what has happened so I will say explicitly what so many of us are thinking:

Keith was murdered

***

As a fisheries observer aboard the Victoria No. 168 cargo ship, Keith Davis carried no badge or weapon. He had no way of signaling for help without going through a computer in the captain’s quarters.

As a fisheries observer aboard the Victoria No. 168 cargo ship, Keith Davis carried no badge or weapon. He had no way of signaling for help without going through a computer in the captain’s quarters. Credit: Ike Sriskandarajah/Reveal

Ten days after Keith Davis vanished, a small army of investigators gathered to board the vessel north of Panama City. Because Davis had gone missing in international waters from a ship registered and flagged in Panama, that nation was in charge of the investigation.  

Authorities from the FBI and Coast Guard were there, too. And with them was a civilian whose business was partly personal.

With a bushy, brown mutton-chop beard, Bryan Belay was not someone who blended into the crowd that day. He looked like a mariner from another century.

Belay was Davis’ boss at MRAG Americas, which hires observers for deployments around the world. Davis was one of his most reliable hands – outgoing, experienced, a student of the sea and committed to protecting it.

Davis’ loss gnawed at him. At times, he could feel sorrow welling up. He kept it in check; there would be time to uncork those emotions later. He had a job to do: Help U.S. authorities with the investigation.

Soon after boarding the ship, he noticed something. It was spanking clean. Even the safety posters looked new. There also were two freshly painted spots on the deck. Routine maintenance, someone told him.

One thing was clear: The Victoria No. 168 had been at sea 10 days since Davis disappeared. It’s a period of time you can’t account for anything, Belay thought. That is a huge problem for the investigation.

The ship’s galley was transformed into a command center. In the front of the ship, investigators were interviewing the officers and crew. Belay was not privy to the conversations. But now and then, investigators popped into the galley to ask him questions. “Is this the way you would expect it to be?”

They did not single out a suspect. But one man was interviewed at least twice, Belay recalled.

There was added intrigue in Davis’ cabin, where investigators found a cache of belongings that told them more about him. A mandolin and four sets of headphones – the man loved music. A survival suit – he was serious about safety. A well-thumbed diary and books about nature, religion and self-fulfillment – he loved the outdoors, but was a pilgrim of the inner world. A tool kit, sewing kit, flashlight and compass – he was ready for anything, a MacGyver kind of guy.

Most important were two silver laptops. The U.S. team copied the drives. On them, they found notes and photographs documenting the dramatic last three weeks of Davis’ life on the cargo ship. But that was just the start. There were files reaching back years that opened a window onto the hidden horrors Davis and other observers encountered at sea: the bedbugs, cockroaches, lousy food and malnutrition. The desperate crewmembers, random violence and 24/7 tension.

There was a vault of interviews with observers talking candidly about their lives at sea. “It’s a dangerous profession,” one observer said in one of the recorded interviews. “You put your life on the line. You could lose your life on the line.”

In a separate folder, he stored logs from other observers, detailing scenes of violence, death and despair that normally are kept confidential.

March 24, 2012 – The captain of (a cargo ship) asked my permission to transfer a deceased Philipino (sic) crewman from (a long-liner). … Upon talking to another Filipino crewman … I learned that his friend (deceased) had been sick for over two months and the captain did nothing to get him proper medical attention or provide any additional meals besides the rice allotted one time a day.

March 26, 2012 – The captain … beat an Indonesian crewman, reportedly for being too sick to work. … As an observer, I’m uncertain as to what I should do. … Standing by and simply writing a report in my daily log about human rights violations seems pretty insignificant and is very difficult for me to do.

April 2, 2013 – They are worked hard, up to 20 hours a day, fed mostly baitfish and rice and are abused physically and verbally. … On my last voyage I was told that one … captain was stabbed by a crewman and because an artery was cut and would not stop bleeding, the ship had to run for days to Tahiti so the captain could get medical attention. Some of these crewmen are at sea for two years before they see land again and under the conditions they have to work and live in to survive, they lose it. I was told by the Vietnamese crewmen that they were not allowed food if they did not work, even though they had been injured and were not physically able to work. I think that it is important to document these things in the hopes that someone will realize how bad things can be for those that are imprisoned at sea and have no voice. 

***

Ten weeks earlier, Keith Davis had been back in the White Mountains of Arizona, manning the barbecue for his dad’s 70th birthday. Davis had gone all out, inviting friends and neighbors and filling up plate after plate with ribs, burgers and chicken. Later, he picked up his guitar and sang a Neil Young classic. Old man, take a look at my life, I’m a lot like you.

Now the house was quiet. John Davis stared out at the gin-scented junipers and powder-blue sky. Keith was his only son. He’d raised him as a single parent since he was 10. The hurt was nonstop.

Keith Davis and his father, John, shown in Arizona's White Mountains, traveled around the globe together. “Me and him talked about everything. We were best buds,” John Davis said.

Keith Davis and his father, John, shown in Arizona’s White Mountains, traveled around the globe together. “Me and him talked about everything. We were best buds,” John Davis said.Credit: Courtesy of John Davis

“The relationship my son and I had is one you dream about: traveling all over the world, diving together, seeing stuff,” he later would say. “Me and him talked about everything. We were best buds.”

John walked into the living room and sank into the couch. On the wall were photos highlighting their years of globetrotting. Memories washed over him: scuba diving in Thailand, a jungle trek in Sumatra, a safari in the Serengeti. At the party, Keith had given him two bottles of Champagne. They opened one. He put the other in the fridge. He’d drink that one when his son came home.

John was helping Keith build a home a short walk away through the junipers, a place to land when he left the sea. John long wondered when that day would come – if it would. The ocean was Keith’s recharge zone, a sanctuary where he found solace and inspiration. The money wasn’t bad, either. On what turned out to be his final voyage, he was earning about $1,600 a week.

A few days after Keith disappeared, John spoke by phone with Matthew Margelot, resident agent in charge with the Coast Guard in California. They talked about a tip that had landed in an FBI inbox.

Keith’s former fiancée, Carla Hilts, warned that Keith’s disappearance might be suspicious, directing the FBI to an incident at a conference in Chile in 2013. John had been there and the memory came flooding back: a crowded room, a panel of speakers, his son at a microphone speaking out about safety, saying not enough had been done to protect him and other observers.

Afterward, Keith recounted how someone had sidled up to him with a warning: “You don’t know who you’re dealing with.”

John could tell his son was rattled. “We ought to stick together,” Keith told him that evening. “These guys are very powerful.”

***

Worried about his safety, Keith Davis did something after the conference that surprised his father: He retired from observing. He’d had enough. It was time to move on. He yearned for a job on land, a wife, a family.

Keith Davis, shown with onetime girlfriend Anik Clemens, was an outspoken advocate for fisheries observers. He helped write an observer bill of rights calling for a workplace “free from assault, harassment, interference or bribery.”

Keith Davis, shown with onetime girlfriend Anik Clemens, was an outspoken advocate for fisheries observers. He helped write an observer bill of rights calling for a workplace “free from assault, harassment, interference or bribery.” Credit: Courtesy of Anik Clemens

And by the next year, he’d found the right woman: Anik Clemens, a single mother and former observer from Florida he’d met years earlier in Hawaii. Clemens was looking for someone, too. Maybe it could work. She invited him out for a trial run. Driving cross-country in a rundown Nissan pickup, Davis swept into her life like a gust of wind.

“Keith was a character,” she recalled. “He was all at once charming, opinionated, intelligent, carefree, and yet there was a mystery about him. When he laughed, there was a twinkle in his eye, as if he knew a secret only he could share.”

Davis warmed to Clemens’ 3-year-old daughter as though she were his own. They went paddleboarding, palled around at a playground. One day, he taught her how to hug a tree. After dinner, he played his guitar and sang the little girl to sleep. Her favorite song: “Somewhere Over the Rainbow,” the ethereal version by Hawaiian singer Israel Kamakawiwoʻole.

One day, Davis told Clemens, “I love you.”

She hesitated. She knew the sea still tugged at him. He was wedded to it. The relationship wasn’t going to work. They separated, warmly.

A few days later, she checked her inbox. There was a message from Davis. He was on his way to Tahiti. He was going back to work as an observer.

A year later, the tragedy preyed on her, robbed her of sleep. How can a person go missing in 2015 and there is no evidence of what happened? Night after night, she stayed up late, playing detective, reading Facebook posts and emails, sifting through her memories. Was there something she had missed? She had always loved puzzles. Now she was living in one.

Sitting by the pool of her condo, she picked up her iPhone and called Margelot, the Coast Guard investigator. She told him something interesting: Davis had written a song about observers who died at sea. He even recorded himself singing it – on a cargo ship, no less. It had some chilling lines:

Some say he’s lost. Maybe he’s been found.

If you listen on the breeze, still hear his sound.

Must have been his time to go. Something we’re not meant to know.

He’s left us his legacy. Now he’s all too free. 

Some suicide victims leave notes. Did Davis leave a song? She didn’t think so. It was much more likely, she believed, that someone killed him. A month later, Clemens emailed Margelot and told him just that:

I have been thinking about Keith every day and am wondering how the investigation is going. … The image that keeps coming to my mind is that Keith saw something he wasn’t supposed to see and Keith’s head was bashed into something … and there was blood everywhere and then he was thrown overboard. 

***

Standing at the rail, Davis stared out across an angry sea on Aug. 18, 2015. The wind howled and moaned, stirring up cobalt blue swells that galloped from horizon to horizon. Out there in the froth, a long-liner was approaching.

As the boat drew close, Davis reached for his Fujifilm point-and-shoot and pressed the shutter. Ringed with green scum, badly in need of a paint job, the Chung Kuo No. 39 was anything but pretty. The crew looked scruffy, too. Some wore full-face stocking caps, the kind bank robbers wear.

Editor’s note: Scenes and details in this story have been re-created through meticulous sourcing, including dozens of interviews, emails from key players, government documents obtained through the Freedom of Information Act and information found on Keith Davis’ hard drives, including photos from his final days on the Victoria No. 168 and his journal and logbook entries.

Like hunters on the Western frontier, long-liners roam the sea for years, never going to town. What keeps them alive are cargo vessels – sometimes called mother ships – that deliver food, fuel and other supplies while also ferrying their frozen fish back to shore. The Victoria No. 168 – owned by a Panamanian company, Gran Victoria International – was the mother ship for the Chung Kuo No. 39 and a fleet of other long-liners. They were owned by a Taiwanese company, Gilontas Ocean Group.

After the two ships were tethered together with thick ropes, Davis watched in awe as a crane on the cargo ship began to hoist bundle after bundle of frozen silver-gray fish out of the long-liner. He’d seen it before, but it was always impressive, especially on stormy days. Swinging through the air, bigger than German shepherds, some bigger than calves, were fish that would feed thousands, that would be spread on sandwiches, sliced into sashimi and plopped into steaming pots of soup.

On the Chung Kuo No. 39, a long-line fishing vessel, a man appears startled or angry as he points his finger at Keith Davis. In the boat's net are albacore being transferred to the cargo ship.

On the Chung Kuo No. 39, a long-line fishing vessel, a man appears startled or angry as he points his finger at Keith Davis. In the boat’s net are albacore being transferred to the cargo ship. Credit: Keith Davis

More than 10 hours later, nearly 60 tons of albacore, bigeye tuna, shark and other fish had been loaded. Most of Davis’ photos from that day are routine. But one sticks out. On the Chung Kuo No. 39, a man is pointing his finger at Davis. He looks startled and angry.

Over the next week, more Gilontas long-liners pulled alongside. All were authorized to fish in the eastern Pacific by the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission. Still, Davis grew frustrated. The fish were so heavily butchered that he struggled to identify them. There were tuna with no heads, billfish with no bills, sharks with no fins. It was a slaughterhouse. He wondered whether the long-liners were trying to disguise bluefin tuna as bigeye to get more of them to market.

Other observers might have done nothing. Not Davis. From the computer in the captain’s quarters, he emailed a U.S. government fisheries biologist in Hawaii, Joe Arceneaux:

Tuna on this ship are coming up not gilled and gutted, but dressed (heads off). How can you tell the difference between a big Bigeye and a Bluefin with no fins and head? … Mistaking Great White Sharks and Bluefins could cause some serious management issues. 

One afternoon, something suspicious happened. “The only bluefin I have seen out here (I have a photo) they started to transport over, until I started to take a photo of it – when they brought it back to their ship rather hurriedly,” he wrote to Arceneaux.

Fish being loaded onto the cargo ship were so heavily carved up that Keith Davis struggled to identify them. He wondered whether fishermen might be trying to disguise one kind of fish as another.

Fish being loaded onto the cargo ship were so heavily carved up that Keith Davis struggled to identify them. He wondered whether fishermen might be trying to disguise one kind of fish as another. Credit: Keith Davis

Bluefins are the most valuable and imperiled of tuna species and subject to catch limits. In the Pacific, their population has plunged below 3 percent of its historic unfished level. They are also enormously valuable. A single bluefin can sell for tens of thousands of dollars and up.

Davis shouted over the rail, asked what they were doing. They told him they’d caught it in the Indian Ocean, outside the commission’s jurisdiction. Davis was skeptical. He had no way of independently contacting anyone about it. Again, he emailed Arceneaux.

Mariners on both vessels also were tossing garbage overboard. Davis couldn’t let that go, either. It was a violation of an international convention forbidding the dumping of waste at sea. As water bottles, plastic bags and who knows what else plopped into the water, Davis took photos and shot video, logging more than a dozen potential infractions.

In handwritten notes, Keith Davis recorded that an Indonesian crewmember on a long-liner had died, but didn’t mention the cause. A few days later, he noted that a long-line crewmember on another vessel was seriously ill.

In handwritten notes, Keith Davis recorded that an Indonesian crewmember on a long-liner had died, but didn’t mention the cause. A few days later, he noted that a long-line crewmember on another vessel was seriously ill. Credit: Keith Davis

Late August brought leaden skies, gauzy sheets of rain, more swells and a psychological jolt. From the ship’s chief officer, Davis learned that an Indonesian crewmember on a long-liner had died. Davis noted the death in his log but didn’t mention the cause. A few days later, he heard that another long-line crewmember became so ill that the ship’s captain steamed to Lima, Peru, for medical help, some 500 miles away.

That vessel, the Chung Kuo No. 818, returned to off-load its catch Sept. 10. The work began at 8:35 a.m. under a blanket of clouds. The winds were light, the waves 2 to 3 meters. When the work was over that afternoon, Davis returned to his cabin near the rear of the ship. About 4, the chief officer walked to Davis’ door to ask him to sign some paperwork.

There was no one inside.

***

Before boarding the Victoria No. 168, Keith Davis spoke by phone with his boss, Bryan Belay, who briefed him about a potentially dangerous situation on the vessel.

“I do remember specifically telling him that previous observers had had issues with the crew and to be aware of that and that it could be a tense situation on that vessel,” Belay said.

But he added: “I had no indication there was a threat to the observer safety, or else I would not have placed an observer on that boat.”

Michael Gauthier, the previous observer on the vessel, had seen it with his own eyes. Hierarchy and discipline had broken down on the ship.

“My impression was this crew really didn’t like each other. More so than any other crew I’ve ever seen before,” he said. “There were these two big factions broke up by nationality and language. Even more than that, there were subcliques within those cliques, and no one seemed to like each other.”

Gauthier finished his voyage without incident. But he was careful.

“It’s wise to play things close to the chest,” he recalled. He had a fallback plan. If someone got too curious about what he was doing, he’d play dumb. If someone asked why he’d taken a photo, he’d say: “Oh, it’s nothing. It’s an interesting fish. I want to take a picture of it.”

Davis wasn’t as likely to play dumb. He was more direct than most observers, at times confrontational.

“He was an outspoken steward of the sea, in-your-face kind of guy when it came to what he did and stood for,” said Caleb McMahan, a former observer in Hawaii and friend of Davis.’

A year before, he’d gotten into a brawl at an observer party in Hawaii. Anik Clemens saw him the next day: There were bruises on his neck and chest and a gash on his foot. “When I first heard about him being missing, I thought: ‘Shit! What happened now? Did he get into a fight?’ ” she said.

Davis’ loss stunned Gauthier. He had no idea what happened. But he was sure of one thing: If Davis was killed, it was not a shipwide conspiracy.

“That is absolutely inconceivable,” he said. “These people could not conspire to successfully complete a workday. There’s no way they could conspire to murder somebody and keep that secret. Someone would have talked by now.”

***

Like hunters on the Western frontier, long-liners like these may roam the sea hauling in fish for years, never going to town.

Like hunters on the Western frontier, long-liners like these may roam the sea hauling in fish for years, never going to town. Credit: Keith Davis

Neither Panamanian nor U.S. investigators have disclosed details or documents about their investigations. But in hindsight, one official says the search was flawed because it happened much too late.

“In ordinary criminal investigations, we talk about the golden hour, the first hour after a crime,” when evidence is fresh, said Michael Berkow, director of the Coast Guard Investigative Service. “Here, we had to wait until they came in to their next port of call. There are some very real and unique challenges posed by the tyranny of time and distance on these kinds of cases.”

For U.S. investigators, there was another obstacle: jurisdiction. Under maritime law, Panama was in charge because the Victoria No. 168 flew its flag. The ship was sovereign Panamanian territory. The U.S. was there by invitation only. And just days into the investigation, Panama did something dramatic.

“They asked us to step away,” Berkow said. “We honored that. We don’t have a choice. They are the ones that control this.”

The Coast Guard suspended its investigation. There was nothing to do but wait for the Panamanians. The agency is still waiting.

“Normally, when the Panamanian prosecutors close a case, they generate a final document,” Berkow said. “We certainly have not seen it.”

Frustrated, Keith Davis’ family and friends have demanded more answers from the FBI. In August, his friend Elizabeth Mitchell, the observers association president, emailed the FBI with a question about Panama’s probe.

“We were informed on May 31 by the Panamanian prosecutor that the matter was being sent to their courts with a recommendation that the case be closed,” FBI assistant legal attaché Isaac DeLong responded. “There were no new investigative leads. … I know this still leaves a lot of questions unanswered. … Unfortunately some of those questions may remain unanswered.”

For Davis’ father, John, that wasn’t good enough. In October, he emailed the U.S. Embassy in Panama asking for a copy of Panama’s investigation. He received unwelcome news.

“The Panamanians did not do a final investigative report,” wrote consular officer Stephanie Espinal. “According to the FBI … there was never any final comprehensive report as would likely have (been) done in the United States.”

None of the men on the Victoria No. 168 when Davis disappeared remain with the vessel, said Belay, Davis’ boss. They’ve gone home or are working on other boats.

Five of the mariners were living in Myanmar as of last fall. All five declined to be interviewed for this story. Efforts to reach the rest of the crew yielded little. One crewmember responded to an email, but said he didn’t know what happened to Davis and asked to be anonymous.

Keith Davis’ Aug. 13, 2015, journal entry reflects on his life and his father: “I’ve really made it – if I can make the greatest man I’ve ever (known) proud of his son, I am a happy man.”

Keith Davis’ Aug. 13, 2015, journal entry reflects on his life and his father: “I’ve really made it – if I can make the greatest man I’ve ever (known) proud of his son, I am a happy man.” Credit: Courtesy of John Davis

Nearly everyone who knew Davis believes he was killed. But no one has any evidence. There’s no clear motive. There’s no suspect. There is only a mystery.

“What happens at sea stays at sea,” said Henrique Ramos, a former observer in the Azores. “How can you prove that something happened? You just can’t.”

If the government investigations have turned up anything, they’re not being shared, even with Davis’ family.

Foul play, of course, is not the only possibility. Davis, who had experienced chest pain on a previous trip, might have lost consciousness and fallen overboard. That would be unlikely on the main deck, where the rail is metal and more than 3 feet high. But outside Davis’ cabin one floor above the main deck, the rail was not metal, but rope.

Perhaps something personal pulled him over the edge? Something we’re not meant to know, as he wrote in his song. If so, he hid it well.

“The boy loved life,” his father said.

Davis’ journal entries from the ship seem to back that up. He wrote on Aug. 13, 2015:

I was just thinking of my time home. … My father was really proud of me – more so than I believe I’ve ever seen. … I’m (now) crying because of it. I’ve really made it – if I can make the greatest man I’ve ever (known) proud of his son, I am a happy man.

We had an awesome 70th birthday party for him. … I really love my home community. … It’s (a) good feeling to finally sort of know what I want. 

One thing is certain: His death was a wake-up call. All observers for Davis’ former company now carry two-way satellite texting devices, allowing them to reach the company without going through a ship’s computer.

“It is something we felt strongly about after this incident,” Belay said. “We needed to get something to ensure we had independent communication.”

Plenty of other observers who don’t work for MRAG continue to have only one way of communicating problems to shore: through the communication system of the ship they’re observing.

Last year, the accounting firm Moss Adams LLP suggested a stronger response: Halt the high-seas long-line observer program altogether and ban the Victoria No. 168 from the global fishing industry.

“The loss of an observer … brings into question whether this program should be allowed to continue,” the company said in a performance review of the Inter-American Tropical Tuna Commission.

The oldest of five regional tuna management organizations, the commission is composed of more than 20 countries and is responsible for the conservation of tuna and marine mammals across 26 million square miles of the eastern Pacific, about 20 percent of the world’s oceans. It is based in San Diego.

“Any vessel involved in an incidence of the loss of life of an observer should never be allowed to operate again in any global fishery,” Moss Adams said in the report.

The tuna commission appears less troubled. In June, it posted a report about its high-seas observer program. It included not one word about Davis.

“The program is operating without any major problems with regards to its implementation and management,” it said.

That shocked many people, including Joe Arceneaux, the federal fisheries biologist whom Davis emailed from the Victoria No. 168.

“One of your guys disappears under strange circumstances, and you act like there’s no problem?” he said. “That’s a problem. Somebody should own it. And nobody wants to.”

Guillermo Compeán, director of the commission, said responsibility for observers in the transshipment fleet rests with the company that employs them.

“We are not involved with the management of the observers,” he said. “It is an outsourcing contract with MRAG.”

He also said cracking down on human rights abuse is not the commission’s responsibility, either. “Our observers are not officials of the law,” he said.

Last year, a British human and environmental rights group, Global Witness, posted a report calling attention to a record 185 environmental advocates killed in 2015 struggling to protect rainforests, wildlife and other resources. Most were from South America and the Philippines. But one was American: Davis.

“The environment is emerging as a new battleground,” the report said. “The numbers are shocking. … On average, more than three people were killed every week in 2015.”

A generation ago, many U.S. observers were federal employees. But to save money, government officials farmed out the jobs to contractors, the Halliburtons of fisheries management. Some say that should change.

“They need to be federal employees because of the high-risk nature of the job. The contracting system does not offer them adequate protection,” said Teresa Turk, a former fisheries biologist with the National Marine Fisheries Service. “They are just so incredibly vulnerable.”

Today, the Victoria No. 168 continues to rendezvous with tuna long-liners in the Pacific. “There is another observer on the boat. There’s no justice for Keith in all of this,” said Caleb McMahan, his friend in Hawaii.

***

John Davis during a memorial for Keith Davis at a San Diego observer conference in 2016, flanked by Reuben Beazley, left, a veteran observer, and Dennis Hansford, right, of the U.S. National Marine Fisheries Service.

John Davis during a memorial for Keith Davis at a San Diego observer conference in 2016, flanked by Reuben Beazley, left, a veteran observer, and Dennis Hansford, right, of the U.S. National Marine Fisheries Service. Credit: Tom Knudson/Reveal

Last August, a small group of people huddled, heads bowed, near the beach of a San Diego resort. They’d come from around the world for an observer conference. As white flowers were tossed into the platinum bay, as music written and performed by Keith Davis floated through the air, they were saying goodbye.

No one took the loss harder than the 71-year-old man who stood before the group wearing a New England Patriots cap and holding a can of Saint Archer blonde ale: Davis’ father, John. He had traveled hundreds of miles from Arizona to be there. Two friends stood at each shoulder, as if sheltering him from a heavy gale. Fighting back tears, he struggled for words.

“Let’s get it done,” he said. “Let’s make observers out there safe.”

 

Hawaii Six Scuba Dives – SaltyDogs.com

Hawaii is one of the most stunning locations on the planet, both on land and under the water. Located 2,500 miles away from the nearest continent, Hawaii is the most remote archipelagos on the planet. As Hawaii is so remote, this means more encounters with species that you wouldn’t normally see in other places around the world. The best thing about diving in the waters surrounding Hawaii and its islands is that no dive is the same. In addition, visibility is pretty much excellent all year round. As well as great visibility, there are many species endemic to Hawaii, so this can provide one-off experiences to those who have never visited these waters before.

Where is Hawaii?

Top 6 Dive Sites In Hawaii

Manta Ray Night Dive, Kailua Kona

Manta Ray, Hawaii

Manta Ray, Hawaii

Listed as one of the top dive sites and experiences on nearly every top 10 dive sites list there is, the Manta Ray Night Dive is an experience like none-other. Large lights are built into the ocean floor, which attract unbelievable amounts of plankton to the area, which in turn provides a smorgasbord for the majestic Manta Rays of Kona, Hawaii. However, watch out because the Mantas like to come so close to you that you usually have to duck out the way, before they whack into you. This is nature in all its glory and if you’re traveling to Hawaii, then make sure you don’t miss out on this unbelievable experience.

Sea Tiger Wreck, West of Waikiki, Honolulu

Surgeonfish, Hawaii

Surgeonfish, Hawaii

The Sea Tiger is a former Chinese trading vessel that was confiscated in the early 1990’s for carrying 90 plus illegal immigrants into Hawaii. The Sea Tiger was then purchased by ‘Voyager Submarines’, cleaned up and then sunk as a part of a dive enrichment effort. The wreck stretches approximately 45 meters and boasts some of the most spectacular sights.

With the plethora of marine species that have made this wreck their home, its pretty hard not to see why this dive site made it to our top 6 list. Residents of this wreck includes; 6ft sea turtles, white tip reef sharks, moray eels, eagle rays and huge schools of fish, just to name a few.

Divers are able to penetrate the wreck with the correct dive certifications, entering through the cargo holds and bridge. Even though there is some miner degradation, the Sea Tiger is still in relatively good shape, making it an amazing experience for wreck diving enthusiasts.

Back Wall of Molokini Crater, Maui

Stunning Coral, Hawaii

Stunning Coral, Hawaii

This spectacular dive site often has a slight current, however it’s more or an intermediate to advanced dive site due to its unique ledges and wall drop off. This is a great spot to enjoy a leisurely drift dive. Due to its depths and lack of a bottom, the visibility reaches well over 30m, which is great for seeing wildlife including sharks, manta rays, dolphins and even whales during certain seasons.

The Forbidden Island, Niihau

Rainbow Fish, Hawaii

Rainbow Fish, Hawaii

This amazing dive location can only be accessed from late spring through to the beginning of autumn, as the winter brings swells that are too big to take on as a diver. This is a dive for experienced divers only. There are a number of dive spots at this location, from relaxed dives over 5m of pristine and beautiful corals to walls that drop below 60m. You’ll find spinner dolphins and even monk seals at this location as well as some rare species of fish and plenty of stunning coral.

The Cathedrals, Lanai

Turtle, Hawaii

Turtle, Hawaii

If you ask any diver who has been to Hawaii, what they would class as a great dive location, the Cathedrals is usually their answer. The depth of this location is around 18 to 20 meters, visibility is excellent and every level of diver can enjoy this dive. The two pinnacles that form the Cathedrals can be used as a great wall dive, as well as providing stunning arches and exciting caves to explore. The caverns roofs have heights of up to 6m and are covered in lava rock that lets in little bits of light from the surface, similarly to a stained glass window.

Corsair, Oahu

The Corsair airplane wreck is found roughly 3 miles away from the Hawaii Kai marina. It sits in 35m of stunning blue pacific waters and is in an upright position. Due to its location, the waters are quite rough, so this is for advanced divers only. The plane sank in 1948 and was originally on route from Pearl Harbor when the captain noticed the fuel gauge was going down quite quickly. He thought it was a faulty gauge and decided to continue on with his journey, when the plane suddenly began to splutter. The captain managed to land the plane safely in the water and it then sank with no damage. The captain was later rescued.

Divers are able to penetrate this wreck, however be aware that the yellow margin moray eels like to make this wreck their home, and are not keen on scuba diving invaders. Larger marine life also like to hang out around this airplane wreck with stingrays, sharks, tiger sharks, rays, manta rays and even during certain seasons, whales like to swim by. This is an excellent dive site that should not be missed, if you’re planning a trip to Hawaii.

Hawaii

Hawaii

There are so many amazing dive sites found around the islands of Hawaii, so if we have missed any off this list, please let us know about them in the comment box below!

 

 

Sunscreen Lotion Damages Reefs

It’s a minefield trying to buy a sunscreen which doesn’t harm the sea life. Even those trumpeting their green credentials are not always free from harmful chemicals and components. You have to read the label very carefully. So what are the nasties of which scuba divers and snorkellers should be wary?

Nanoparticles

Nano particles are minute chemical substances, which are about 100,000 times smaller than the diameter of a human hair.

Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles are often used in sunscreens. They allow clear sunscreen which can be sprayed on. However, they produce significant amounts of hydrogen peroxide, a strong oxidizing agent that generates high levels of stress on reef-building corals and marine phytoplankton. They have also been shown to make sea urchin embryos more vulnerable to toxins.

You need to avoid nanoparticles if you are looking for a marine-friendly sunscreen.

Oxybenzone

A study by Dr Craig Downs published last year showed Oxybenzone (also known as Benzophenone-2 or BP-2) increased the rate of coral bleaching. Additionally, the chemical damages the coral’s dna, affecting their reproduction. If that wasn’t enough other effects are to make juvenile corals become grossly deformed and encase themselves with their own skeletons.

Octinoxate, Butylparaben, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor

Another study, this time by Roberto Danovaro et al, named butylparaben, octinoxate and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor as being harmful to reefs.

How Much of a Problem is it?

According to NOAA (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration) 4,000 to 6,000 tons of sunscreen enters reef areas annually. This does not spread out rapidly or evenly over the entire ocean, but concentrates on popular tourist sites. It is estimated that 90% of snorkellers and scuba divers are concentrated on 10% of the world’s reefs.

So which sunscreens can you use?

Look for ones without the ingredients mentioned above. Zinc oxide and Titanium dioxide are good as long as they are not in nano-format. A quick guide is whether the sunscreen is clear or not. If it is clear, or in a spray, it probably contains nano-particles.
If the ingredients state “uncoated” zinc oxide then these are larger particles (non-nano) and safe.

Some examples of sunscreens which less harmful to sea life are:
Badger Sunscreen Unscented
Lovea Natural Sunscreen Spray
Jason Sunbrellas
Bio Solis

Any others you’d recommend – let us know in the comments below.

References and Further Reading

Sunscreen nanoparticles harm sealife. SCUBA News 2015.

Downs, C.A., Kramarsky-Winter, E., Segal, R. et al. Arch Environ Contam Toxicol (2016) 70: 265. doi:10.1007/s00244-015-0227-7

Danovaro, Roberto; Bongiorni, Lucia; Corinaldesi, Cinzia; Giovannelli, Donato; Damiani, Elisabetta; et al. Environmental Health Perspectives; Research Triangle Park116.4 (Apr 2008): 441-7.

The impacts of sunscreen on coral reefs. National Park Service.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G41p8RurCxs

Netrani Island – Locals Protest Tourist Scuba Divers

Netrani Island is a small island off the southwest coast of India.  The locals don’t seem to be keen on letting tourists go scuba diving around their island.  See article…

 

Bhatkallys News Service/ Rizwan Gangavali

Murdeshwar 12 February 2017: Local fishermen today protested against few foreign scuba divers who were in the coastal town as tourists and were pretty interested in scuba diving near Netrani Island.

As per the reports around 15 foreign tourists were in talks with local boat agents for scuba diving at Netrani Island, when a group of local people came together and blocked their way, demanding the termination of their plans of scuba diving.

Local police, MLA Mankal Vaidya, Panchayath member Albert Dcosta rushed to the scene and were quick to take over the situation.

Local people protested in support of the fishermen as they claimed their fishing boats often roam around the Netrani island for fishing and the divers scare the fishes away resulting in the loss of fishermen.

MLA Mankal Vaidya dealt with protestors and assured them of taking up the issue with higher authorities and requested protestors to respect the tourist and give up the protest for now as it will have an bad impression on them about the Nation. After which the tourists were let to have a go at scuba diving

 

 

Categories

We offer 24/7 dedicated support

If you need assistance with your order, do not hesitate to contact us.

Got Question? Call us 24/7

(855) 683-7476

CONTACT US

Sign up for newsletter

Copyright © 2024 SaltyDogs.com. All Rights Reserved.

Add to cart